Simple Pool and Spa Repair from Harvey at All Parts Pool and Spa

Tech Tips and Repair how-to for pool and spa owners

Does your pool have a pool heater?

Does your pool have a pool heater? Do you fill your pool with public water piped through old pipes? Do you fill your pool from a well with a high mineral content? Have your had to use a large amount of algaecide to treat your pool? Are your pool surfaces turning colors other than what your intended? All of these are reasons why you may want to test your pool water for the presence of copper

Copper in the water can not only turn your pool surfaces colors it is the leading cause of green hair in swimmers. Most people do not like green hair and nails, so it is best to prevent it. Test your water regularly for copper if you have any of the above factors to be safe.


Yesterday at 8:09 pm Comments (0)

Hot tubs use two different types of filters

Hot tubs use two different types of filters to help keep the water clean. A skimmer filter works by suction. The pump draws water and debris off of the top of the spa usually through a weir and basket to catch big debris before the filter. The water than travels through a filter to small impurities and into the pump to continue on in the circulation.

Like everything else skim filters sometimes break and need to be replaced. If you are replacing a skimmer filter it is important to match the new filter to the size of the hole in the tub.


Yesterday at 8:05 pm Comments (0)

Parts to make your blower better

Brushes: Instead of buying a new air blower for your pool and/or spa sometimes all you need to do is to take the blower apart and simply replace the brushes on the motor to make the blower work again. It will save you from buying a new blower.

Adapter Cords: These cords come in different lengths and different sizes. They are made to help you plug in your new blower without doing a lot of wiring. There are cords made to plug your blower directly into your pool or spa pack or controller.

Check Valves: Air check valves are very highly recommended for all pool and/or spa blowers. If the air blower is below the water level of the pool or spa, they help the water to stay out of the blower so you do not burn it out. There are different kinds of air check valves for different air blower plumbing, 1 ½ in. PVC, 2 in PVC, 2 ½ in PVC. There are slip to slip and some take male threads and have to be glued.

Cords: There are different cords for 110v or 220v. This gives the common power cords for installing a blower. There are cords for going directly into outlets (male) and cords (usually female) for going into a pack or controller to get power. These cords can also be used to power other pool and spa equipment, such as pumps, ozonators, etc.

Fittings: These fittings are not normally available in local hardware stores. They are specially made for the pool and spa industry. The sweep 90’s in particular are used to minimize the space that the blower is installed in such as under a spa. The U bends are usually used to act as traps. These fittings are also used to comply with local code requirements.

Motors: Instead of replacing your complete blower you can buy a motor combined with a new fan. Replacement is easy and requires no gluing. There are different styles and voltages (115v and 220v) and different horse power ranging from 1 ½ hp to 2 hp.


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July 23, 2017 at 11:21 am Comments (0)

Ways to keep your cartridges clean

One of the most important things you can do to keep your pool or spa clean and safe for your use is to maintain a clean filter. If you are using a cartridge filter, I would recommend two items to make your job quicker and easier.

One is Pure and Clean Cartridge and Grid Cleaner. This amazing multipurpose cleaner is fast acting. It removes calcium, minerals, dirt, oils and scale. It is deep penetrating so that it renews and improves the efficiency of your filter. Pure and Clean will work on DE filter grids also. It is so multipurpose that after cleaning your filters you can use it to clean your pool equipment, your spa shell, your boat (Yacht or Dingy!) and your patio furniture. From personal observations, white patio furniture will look like brand new!

The second item is the filter Flosser, a cartridge cleaning tool made specifically for cleaning pleated cartridge filters. It’s unique design fits on a regular garden hose. A powerful spray pattern of water and air is generated Gris the curved nozzle design and small outlets. This allows the water to penetrate deep down between the pleats of the filter, giving the interior surfaces a thorough cleaning. Mikise Filter Tools believes in their product so much that it comes with a limited LIFETIME warranty.

Remember the first step to a clean pool or spa is a clean filter. Do your maintenance and keep your work simple with so great products.


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July 22, 2017 at 3:20 pm Comments (0)

Gecko alliance spa packs

Gecko Alliance makes spa packs for many spa manufacturers. We carry a large inventory of Gecko Alliance spa packs that can be used to replace yours when you need it. Gecko is a very reliable pack and is always a good choice for your new pack.

If you do not find the spa pack you need in stock on our website, please, give us a call or email. Gecko Alliance stock arrives regularly and what you may need may have just arrived and not be checked in yet or on its way and scheduled in within a day or two.


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July 20, 2017 at 2:58 pm Comments (0)

Why should you changes your cartridges for pool and spa

Filters are used to remove insoluble matter from your pool or spa. Cartridge filters are one of the types of filters used. Over time the accumulation of dirt on the filter cartridge results in the slow-down of the turnover rate making it unacceptable for keeping the pool water safe. The cartridge can be removed and cleaned to remove most of the dirt. Over a period of time the little bit of dirt not removed with each cleaning clogs the pores of the filter and the cartridge needs to be replaced.
If you have not replaced your cartridges in your pool in the past year or in your spa in the past 3-6 months, you should get yourself some new cartridges. Use the numbers from the old cartridge or measure the size of the old cartridge to find the one you need.


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July 20, 2017 at 2:54 pm Comments (0)

How to Adjust Alkalinity for the Effect of Cyanuric Acid

Before adjusting pH or sanitizer in your pool, you need to adjust the total alkalinity to carbonate alkalinity. Sanitizers like Dichlor and Trichlor release cyanuric acid (CA) which is a weak buffer. Cyanuric acid may also be added directly as a stabilizer. Total alkalinity needs to be adjusted for cyanuric acid so that you can calculate the correct amount of the chemicals needed to adjust carbonate alkalinity to the ideal amounts.

To determine the carbonate alkalinity the first thing to do is measure the pH, the total alkalinity (TA) and the cyanuric acid concentration. If CA is greater than 90 ppm, dilute the pool water with regular (untreated) water before correction factor found in the following table to get the carbonate alkalinity using the formula: TA – (CA x correction factor) = carbonate alkalinity.

For a pH = 7.2, TA = 120 and CA = 100, use the formula to get 93 ppm of carbonate alkalinity:
120 – (100 x 0.27) = 120 – 27 = 93 ppm carbonate alkalinity

Now adjust your other pool readings (pH and sanitizer) for a safe and balanced pool.

Table for Cyanuric Acid Correction Factor:
pH factor
7.0 0.23
7.2 0.27
7.4 0.31
7.6 0.33
7.8 0.35
8.0 0.36

Cartridge filters, spa filters, pool filters


Filters are used to remove insoluble matter from your pool or spa. Cartridge filters are one of the types of filters used. Over time the accumulation of dirt on the filter cartridge results in the slow-down of the turnover rate making it unacceptable for keeping the pool water safe. The cartridge can be removed and cleaned to remove most of the dirt. Over a period of time the little bit of dirt not removed with each cleaning clogs the pores of the filter and the cartridge needs to be replaced.
If you have not replaced your cartridges in your pool in the past year or in your spa in the past 3-6 months, you should get yourself some new cartridges. Use the numbers from the old cartridge or measure the size of the old cartridge to find the one you need.


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July 19, 2017 at 8:23 pm Comments (0)

More bubbles for a spa

Air blowers are used to make lots of bubbles in your hot tub. They not only take air into the spa lines but they force it out of the jets to make the bubbly movement that most people associate with hot tubs. Without a blower you can have some bubbles and you still have water movement, but if you want real action add a blower to your spa.


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July 19, 2017 at 8:19 pm Comments (0)

Basic balancing of hot tub water

When balancing your spa water the goal is to end with invisible water. When the water is still it should be so crystal clear that you will have to touch the water to make sure it’s actually there! If you have good source water, (We will address bad source water at another time.) all you need to do in order to get inviting sparkly water that’s safe for you and your other bathers and which will increase your spa’s longevity, is to correctly balance 3 basic measurements; sanitizer (ideally chlorine), pH and total alkalinity (TA).
Chlorine, the most common and one of the best sanitizers, should be kept between 1-3ppm. Too little chlorine in your hot tub results in an ideal environment for bacteria to grow. This bacterial growth can cloud the water, or at the very least, give it a horrible smell. If you were to bathe in this water, any openings you have in your body would allow entry to the bacteria, which is never good. Too high chlorine in the spa can be abrasive to headrests or the inside of your spa cover; it can also stain your clothing or attack and damage your jewelry.
PH is the measurement of the level of acidity and alkalinity in your water. Your pH should be kept between 7.2-7.8, with 7.5 being perfect. Too low pH means your water will be acidic. Some very acidic liquids are stomach acid, lemon juice and vinegar. Low pH levels in your spa makes for acidic water, this can cause your eyes to sting can make your chlorine disappear and it is really bad for your spa equipment. Acidic water eats away at the metal and plastic of your spa equipment, weakening them and shortening their life span. Too high pH means your water will be alkaline. Some very alkaline liquids are oven cleaner, household bleach and ammonia. Again, this causes your eyes to sting and it makes your chlorine ineffective. Alkaline water affects your spa equipment differently from acidic water. High pH levels can leave calcium deposits, causing a buildup in your heating elements and pipes meaning decreased circulation and function.
Total Alkalinity (TA) is the last of the three and ties in directly with the pH levels. TA acts as a steadying factor for your pH. The levels of your TA should be 80-120ppm. If your TA isn’t correct, your pH will never be either. If your TA is too low, your pH can change drastically in a short time. If TA is too high, your pH will be too. If you don’t get your TA correct, you’ll waste a lot of money on pH chemicals when all you need to do is correct the TA levels to provide a nice solid base for your pH.
So, in conclusion, keep your chlorine between 1-3ppm, your pH between 7.2-7.8 and your Total Alkalinity (TA) between 80-120ppm. Your guests and your spa will thank you for it!


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July 8, 2017 at 12:04 pm Comments (0)

Diagnosing and repairing a sta-rite pool and spa heater using a systematic approach – segment two

We will continue our systematic approach to diagnosing a pool heater by looking at what to do when the light in the control pad on the top of your Sta-Rite pool and spa heater that is labeled “service heater” is lit. (We will proceed with the assumption that you know everything from segment one.) This time you will need to remove the sides from the heater before disconnecting power to the heater so that you can read the codes on the board attached to the topside. After removing the sides, you will see the big topside that is still connected to the heater. Below the topside is a metal panel that keeps the topside in place. Under this panel there are two locking pins (cotter pins). Carefully remove the two pins and store them somewhere safe until reassembly. Gently remove the top and turn it upside down. You will see a light lit on the board you are looking at when you turn the topside over. The light will be next to a code that is written on the board.
The first code that you’ll see on the left side of the board will be PS. This is the code for the pressure switch. We covered the pressure switch in segment one. If this light is lit go back to segment one and review that segment. If necessary follow the instructions to replace the pressure switch.
The next code you’ll see on the board is HLS. If you have a controller on the system you will need to bypass it at this time. You will need to carefully disconnect the power from the heater. After you are sure that the power is disconnected, you will need to find and open the high-voltage cabinet. This cabinet is a metal box in the middle of the heater. If you are looking at the cabinet, there is usually a screw on the top right side. Loosen the screw and the door will swing down toward you. You need to be extremely careful when working in this box and only do so when you are sure that the power to the heater is OFF.
You will need to bypass the firewall safety interface. To do this you will need a short wire with stab-tab connectors. If you have a controller and it was properly installed the wire may have been left in the box by the tech who installed the controller. If not you will need to make this jumper wire. At this point look in your owner’s manual to locate the two proper pins to connect to. If you have a controller or are using a fireman’s switch this is where your control should be connected. If you have a controller and it is not connected here, it could be the source of your problems and either have a certified tech correct the problem or correct it yourself.
You must be careful not to put the jumper wire on the power terminals or you will destroy your heater by burning up the electronic system. Use your manual to locate where the fireman’s switch is supposed to be attached and carefully attach your jumper between these terminals. If you now turn on the power and the heater works without any problems, your problem lies in the controller or the wiring going to the controller. You will need to trouble shoot this system.
If you still have the same problem with your heater. (“service heater” light comes on), leave the jumper in place and verify that the pump is on and that you have good water flow. Make sure again with your meter that the pressure switch is not cycling. It should read as a dead short. (See segment one) With good water flow verified and the “service heater” light on, your problem could be one of the thermo-regulators in the safety system.
Since we started this with the indicator light on the board lit next to HLS, the first thing we are going to check are the wires going to the high limit switch. The high limit switch is located near the bottom on the left side of the water manifold as you face it. To see it you need to remove the side cover on the water manifold. The screw that holds the cover is on the top of it. You need to make sure that the orange wires going to the switch are intact, attached and not corroded. If the wiring is good, use your multi-meter to check that the high limit switch reads as a dead short. If it reads open and the water is not above 104 F, replace the high limit switch. If this does not fix your problem you may have a bad control board and it will need to be replaced. Testing the control board is a very involved process and will be dealt with in a later segment.
This is the end of segment two and has taken you through part of the safety circuit in the heater and 2 of the indicator lights on the board. We will continue on with our systematic diagnose of problems on the Sta-Rite pool and spa heater in the next segment.
I have been involved with repairs, equipment replacement, and the design and execution of customized systems. I am certified and trained by several large manufacturers such as Hayward, Pentair, Goldline and Sta-Rite. I am an expert in handling warranty service for pool and spa equipment including pumps, filters, heat pumps, lighting and alternative sanitation.


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July 8, 2017 at 12:01 pm Comments (0)

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