Simple Pool and Spa Repair from Harvey at All Parts Pool and Spa

Tech Tips and Repair how-to for pool and spa owners

Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer

One of the ways to insure that your pool or spa is crystal clear is to use a clarifier to clump very small contaminating particles, including bacteria. By clumping them together you make it easier to remove them through normal filtration. Traditionally crystalline powders have been used that are difficult to distribute evenly throughout the water and to mix completely. Safe-N-Clean Pool Clarifier is a concentrated gel tablet that will effectively assist all filters to remove harmful bacteria, viral species, microscopic particles and odor causing oils that accumulate in your pool during general use. It is nontoxic, biodegradable and eco-friendly. One treatment will work for 30 days.

Stains and mineral build ups make your pool unsightly and unpleasant to enjoy fully. Safe-N-Clean Metal Sequester is designed to work synergistically with Safe-N-Clean Pool Clarifier to protect your pool from stain-causing metal (iron) ions and other minerals. It acts to prevent the build-up of calcium and magnesium inherent in many water sources either municipal or well. It works best when you start with a clean pool. It is nontoxic, biodegradable and eco-friendly. It is completely safe with all pool chemicals. One treatment will work for 30 days.

Oils from lotions and creams, ammonia and chloramines from the break-down products of the chemicals and body fluids from normal usage cause unpleasant smells and feel to the water in your pool. This is not pleasant to use or to even enjoy sitting around. Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer works in conjunction with Safe-N-Clear Pool Clarifier to counter nature’s elements. When used on a regular schedule, it will oxidize the organic material and eliminate the smell from chlorine off-gassing. It will decrease the burning effects of chlorine break-down products on eyes and skin. It works as a booster to your weekly sanitizer. One package will last for 30 days. It is eco-friendly, bio-degradable and non-toxic.

PROTECTS FROM ORGANIC METABOLITES. GEL-CAP DISSOLVES WITHIN 24 HOURS OF PUMP RUN TIME.

HOW IT WORKS: Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ begins its fast-acting process immediately after being placed in the strainer basket of your pump. It is a highly soluble, fast-acting gel that helps maintain pools, designed to act synergistically with Safe-N-Clean Pool Clarifier™ to counter nature’s elements. Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ protects pools from lotions, ammonia and chloramines. Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ is designed to give pools and spas a time-release oxidative gel distribution that acts as a bi-weekly complement or booster to the weekly application of chlorine sanitizer common to the industry.

It is important to start with a clean pool then use Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ to maintain your pool for you. Results after 1 package can be seen for up to 30 days. Pools larger than 30,000 gallons and/or extremely dirty pools may need a weekly application. If Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ is used continuously on a regular schedule, it will oxidize organic metabolites and eliminate chlorine off-gassing, as well as diminish burning effects of chlorine to the eyes and skin.

Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ is nontoxic, environmentally safe, biodegradable and completely safe for use with swimming spa chemical systems.

CAUTION: Safe-N-Clean Pool Oxidizer™ CANNOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH WATER OUTSIDE THE STRAINER BASKET. IF THE GEL-CAP BECOMES WET AND IS PLACED ON ANY SURFACE, IT WILL BECOME EXTREMELY SLIPPERY AND DANGEROUS FOR WALKING. IF THIS HAPPENS, WASH THE AREA WITH WATER UNTIL THE AREA IS NO LONGER SLIPPERY. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

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August 26, 2017 at 5:26 pm Comments (0)

Spa and Pool Cartridge Filters

As you are opening your pool and spa for the coming season, it is time to check that your cartridge filters are in good shape. In most cases to give you the best performance they probably should be replaced. If they are a year old they should be replaced. Over time the pores in the filter become clogged by material that is not removed when the filter is cleaned and the filtering capacity is reduced, often to the point that they are no longer doing their job at helping sanitize your pool and keep your family healthy.

On a spa you should always have 2 filters that you rotate in and out. You can put a clean filter in quickly when you need one and then clean the one that you removed and allow it to sit cleaned until you need to change the filter again. Allowing it to dry in between helps kill any pathogens that maybe on the filter since most can not survive long when dry. You also can clean it more thoroughly without rushing to get it back into the spa.
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August 24, 2017 at 3:04 pm Comments (0)

The most common way to sanitize or disinfect a pool and spa

The most common way to sanitize or disinfect a pool and spa is through the use of chlorine compounds. Chlorine is a member of the halogen family of elements and the other members, bromine and iodine, can also be used in disinfection. Bromine is commonly used in hot tubs.

The chemistry of bromine is similar to but less reactive than that of chlorine. It can not be used as shock. Bromine as an element is a brown volatile liquid that has irritating toxic fumes. For use in pools and spas it is used in solid form as a salt with an accompanied oxidizer or as a tablet or stick that contains both the bromine and the oxidizer.

Bromine, like chlorine combines with organic material. These combined forms are still effective sanitizers. The combined bromamines unlike chloramines do not smell. For this reason some people prefer bromine compounds for spas.

Iodine is also a sanitizer but it is usually not used for pools and spas because it only gives bacteria free water and it is necessary to use an additional oxidizing agent for algae and organic matter. Its good points are that it is non-irritating and does not bleach hair and bathing suits.

Ozone has been used for over 100 years to sanitize water. In Europe it is the most popular method of treating water. Ozone is one of the strongest oxidizers but it constantly has to be continually generated because it only has a residual of about 20 minutes. It is a good choice because it kills bacteria and oxidizes organics including chloramines, bather wastes and oils without changing the pH. Also it breaks down to oxygen which enhances the water by improving the taste and smell.

Because ozone has such a short residual time and limitations in how much can be introduced into the water other things need to be added to control algae. Ozone is therefore often used in conjunction with one of the halides such as chlorine or bromine.

Ozone can be made for pools and spas by 2 primary methods. In Europe the most common method is by Corona Discharge. Ozone is generated by using high-voltage electricity on pressurized and dried air. The ozone gas is then introduced into the bottom of the pool either directly or through the use of a separate chamber.

The second method of ozone generation is by using ultraviolet (UV) exposure of pressurized and dried air. The oxygen in the air is bombarded by the UV and produces ozone. UV does not have as great an output as can been generated by the Corona Discharge method but it is cheaper. I single UV light will generate about enough ozone to treat 10,000 gallons of water. This is why it is usually only found in spas and small home pools.

Ozone residuals are measured in parts per billion (ppb) using DPD as a reagent or by oxidation reduction potential (ORP) meters. If it is being used with chlorine or bromine any amount is effective. If you want numbers to go by then DPD readings should be between 0 and 100 ppb or a minimum 650 millivolts on the ORP meter.

Silver has been used to remove bacteria from pool or spa water by introducing silver through electrolysis or passing an electrical current through a silver electrode. It is not commonly used because of the expense of silver. There is also a danger of a black deposit forming on the walls if the water being treated is exposed to sunlight.

The final alternative sanitation is really still using chlorine, but it is not using “chemicals.”. Clorine generators are electrical devices that generate chlorine from salt dissolved directly in the pool water or by using a separate salt-solution (brine) chamber.

The brine type of generation is a similar method to how chlorine gas is produced commercially when it uses caustic soda to neutralize the pH. It can be designed for any size pool. A positive electrode in the brine tank generates chlorine gas which is directed into the pool or spa water for sanitation.

The other means of chlorine generation is through a generator placed in-line of the circulation system of the pool or spa. It uses an electrolytic cell that passes a current through electrodes in the flow of the low salt water of the pool and generates chlorine, caustic soda and hydrogen gas directly into the pool or spa water. By reversing the charge on the electrodes, scale build up is kept to a minimum. The caustic soda helps balance the pH. Because the products of the generation revert back to salt over time the process can continue all over again.

The generating system can be set to do a superchlorination so that chloramines are kept at a minimum. This method is very effective for spas and small pools and can save money because salt is much lower in price than chlorine chemicals.

No matter how you treat your pool and spa water to keep it safe test the water regularly to make sure that the sanitizer levels are sufficient to keep the “nasties” out.
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August 24, 2017 at 3:02 pm Comments (0)

Does your pool have a pool heater?

Does your pool have a pool heater? Do you fill your pool with public water piped through old pipes? Do you fill your pool from a well with a high mineral content? Have your had to use a large amount of algaecide to treat your pool? Are your pool surfaces turning colors other than what your intended? All of these are reasons why you may want to test your pool water for the presence of copper

Copper in the water can not only turn your pool surfaces colors it is the leading cause of green hair in swimmers. Most people do not like green hair and nails, so it is best to prevent it. Test your water regularly for copper if you have any of the above factors to be safe.

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August 23, 2017 at 8:09 pm Comments (0)

Ways to keep your cartridges clean

One of the most important things you can do to keep your pool or spa clean and safe for your use is to maintain a clean filter. If you are using a cartridge filter, I would recommend two items to make your job quicker and easier.

One is Pure and Clean Cartridge and Grid Cleaner. This amazing multipurpose cleaner is fast acting. It removes calcium, minerals, dirt, oils and scale. It is deep penetrating so that it renews and improves the efficiency of your filter. Pure and Clean will work on DE filter grids also. It is so multipurpose that after cleaning your filters you can use it to clean your pool equipment, your spa shell, your boat (Yacht or Dingy!) and your patio furniture. From personal observations, white patio furniture will look like brand new!

The second item is the filter Flosser, a cartridge cleaning tool made specifically for cleaning pleated cartridge filters. It’s unique design fits on a regular garden hose. A powerful spray pattern of water and air is generated Gris the curved nozzle design and small outlets. This allows the water to penetrate deep down between the pleats of the filter, giving the interior surfaces a thorough cleaning. Mikise Filter Tools believes in their product so much that it comes with a limited LIFETIME warranty.

Remember the first step to a clean pool or spa is a clean filter. Do your maintenance and keep your work simple with so great products.

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July 22, 2017 at 3:20 pm Comments (0)

How to Adjust Alkalinity for the Effect of Cyanuric Acid

Before adjusting pH or sanitizer in your pool, you need to adjust the total alkalinity to carbonate alkalinity. Sanitizers like Dichlor and Trichlor release cyanuric acid (CA) which is a weak buffer. Cyanuric acid may also be added directly as a stabilizer. Total alkalinity needs to be adjusted for cyanuric acid so that you can calculate the correct amount of the chemicals needed to adjust carbonate alkalinity to the ideal amounts.

To determine the carbonate alkalinity the first thing to do is measure the pH, the total alkalinity (TA) and the cyanuric acid concentration. If CA is greater than 90 ppm, dilute the pool water with regular (untreated) water before correction factor found in the following table to get the carbonate alkalinity using the formula: TA – (CA x correction factor) = carbonate alkalinity.

For a pH = 7.2, TA = 120 and CA = 100, use the formula to get 93 ppm of carbonate alkalinity:
120 – (100 x 0.27) = 120 – 27 = 93 ppm carbonate alkalinity

Now adjust your other pool readings (pH and sanitizer) for a safe and balanced pool.

Table for Cyanuric Acid Correction Factor:
pH factor
7.0 0.23
7.2 0.27
7.4 0.31
7.6 0.33
7.8 0.35
8.0 0.36

Cartridge filters, spa filters, pool filters

WHY SHOULD YOU CHANGES YOUR CARTRIDGES

Filters are used to remove insoluble matter from your pool or spa. Cartridge filters are one of the types of filters used. Over time the accumulation of dirt on the filter cartridge results in the slow-down of the turnover rate making it unacceptable for keeping the pool water safe. The cartridge can be removed and cleaned to remove most of the dirt. Over a period of time the little bit of dirt not removed with each cleaning clogs the pores of the filter and the cartridge needs to be replaced.
If you have not replaced your cartridges in your pool in the past year or in your spa in the past 3-6 months, you should get yourself some new cartridges. Use the numbers from the old cartridge or measure the size of the old cartridge to find the one you need.

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July 19, 2017 at 8:23 pm Comments (0)

Basic balancing of hot tub water

When balancing your spa water the goal is to end with invisible water. When the water is still it should be so crystal clear that you will have to touch the water to make sure it’s actually there! If you have good source water, (We will address bad source water at another time.) all you need to do in order to get inviting sparkly water that’s safe for you and your other bathers and which will increase your spa’s longevity, is to correctly balance 3 basic measurements; sanitizer (ideally chlorine), pH and total alkalinity (TA).
Chlorine, the most common and one of the best sanitizers, should be kept between 1-3ppm. Too little chlorine in your hot tub results in an ideal environment for bacteria to grow. This bacterial growth can cloud the water, or at the very least, give it a horrible smell. If you were to bathe in this water, any openings you have in your body would allow entry to the bacteria, which is never good. Too high chlorine in the spa can be abrasive to headrests or the inside of your spa cover; it can also stain your clothing or attack and damage your jewelry.
PH is the measurement of the level of acidity and alkalinity in your water. Your pH should be kept between 7.2-7.8, with 7.5 being perfect. Too low pH means your water will be acidic. Some very acidic liquids are stomach acid, lemon juice and vinegar. Low pH levels in your spa makes for acidic water, this can cause your eyes to sting can make your chlorine disappear and it is really bad for your spa equipment. Acidic water eats away at the metal and plastic of your spa equipment, weakening them and shortening their life span. Too high pH means your water will be alkaline. Some very alkaline liquids are oven cleaner, household bleach and ammonia. Again, this causes your eyes to sting and it makes your chlorine ineffective. Alkaline water affects your spa equipment differently from acidic water. High pH levels can leave calcium deposits, causing a buildup in your heating elements and pipes meaning decreased circulation and function.
Total Alkalinity (TA) is the last of the three and ties in directly with the pH levels. TA acts as a steadying factor for your pH. The levels of your TA should be 80-120ppm. If your TA isn’t correct, your pH will never be either. If your TA is too low, your pH can change drastically in a short time. If TA is too high, your pH will be too. If you don’t get your TA correct, you’ll waste a lot of money on pH chemicals when all you need to do is correct the TA levels to provide a nice solid base for your pH.
So, in conclusion, keep your chlorine between 1-3ppm, your pH between 7.2-7.8 and your Total Alkalinity (TA) between 80-120ppm. Your guests and your spa will thank you for it!

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July 8, 2017 at 12:04 pm Comments (0)

Safe-n-clean pool clarifier

One of the ways to insure that your pool or spa is crystal clear is to use a clarifier to clump very small contaminating particles, including bacteria. By clumping them together you make it easier to remove them through normal filtration. Traditionally crystalline powders have been used that are difficult to distribute evenly throughout the water and to mix completely. Safe-N-Clean Pool Clarifier is a concentrated gel tablet that will effectively assist all filters to remove harmful bacteria, viral species, microscopic particles and odor causing oils that accumulate in your pool during general use. It is nontoxic, biodegradable and eco-friendly. One treatment will work for 30 days.

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July 6, 2017 at 11:52 am Comments (0)

Baptismal pools

Pools come in are many sizes and shapes. Many people think of a pool for swimming but pools have other uses too. An important use for some pools is for baptisms. Baptismal pools need maintenance and repairs the same any other pool. Parts wear out and pieces break. AllPartsPoolandSpa.com has parts for baptismal pools as well as total control systems.
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July 4, 2017 at 9:45 pm Comments (0)

What To Do with the Other Chemicals

What To Do with the Other Chemicals

Even with keeping good chemistry in your pool and spa over time you main need to use some other things to keep your water at it’s best. These things include algaecides, flocculants, stabilizers, and more.

Sometimes pool water becomes cloudy because of the introduction of organic pollution from the environment (i.e. air born pollens) or human wastes. Some of these are too small to be removed by the pool filter. In this case you may want to use flocculants instead excess and more expensive chlorine.

A flocculating product is broadcast on the water of the pool. It joins with the small particles, making them bigger and heavier so that they fall out of the water. They are then carefully vacuumed up from the bottom.

There are also some flocculants that are available to add to sand filters so that they are more efficient in removing small particles. As with all chemicals follow the manufacturers directions for best results.

Algae can become a problem particularly in the early season when you are first bring a pool out of winterization, after a severe storm, and any time the chlorine level drops too low. Algae can be introduced into the water by wind blow debris, rain, falling leaves and flowers, and even the water you use to fill your pool with. The growth of algae can be helped by sunlight and warm temperatures and by other things in the water such as bacteria and minerals.

Algae comes in many forms and colors.Algae can float on the surface of the water or attach to walls and/or the bottom of the pool. You may need to use an algaecide to get rid of the algae as well as some vigorous scrubbing if it has attached.

Algaecides come in many different forms. Some contain metals such as copper. It is important to follow the manufacturers directions not only for them to work properly but to prevent them from causing discoloration in your pool. Some algae (ie. cobalt algae) is very resistance to removal and will require repeated treatments.

The use of an algae inhibitor and more importantly maintaining a high free chlorine level will keep algae at a minimum.

Stains particularly from a water source that is high in iron may require the addition of chelating or sequestering agents on a regular basis to keep staining to a minimum. Sequestering or chelating agents increase the ability of the water to keep the minerals in solution.

Foaming can be a common problem in spas either from natural elements in the water or from a well meaning person who thinks that the addition of some soap will make for better bubbles. In this case a good defoamer will be your friend. Just follow the directions on the container.

Because the UV light from the sun removes chlorine from the water in outdoor facilities it will be necessary to have a stabilizer in the water to help hold on to the chlorine and keep it from breaking down into inactive compounds.

Cyanuric acid is used to protect the chlorine from the effects of sunlight and heat. 30 to 50 ppm of cyanuric acid will keep the loss of chlorine to 10 to 15 %. A pool without stabilizer will lose most of it in about 3 hours of strong sunlight.

New pools or freshly filled pools will need to be stabilized but you will need to then add very little over time. You lose stabilizer with the water that is removed from the pool or spa by what bathers carry out with them, splashing and filter backwashing. But do not neglect the stabilizer unless you want to use and pay for a lot of chlorine.

Cyanuric acid levels should not be allowed to get above 100ppm because when it gets too high it interferes with the ability to balance the water in the pool. Cyanuric acid is removed by draining at least 20% of the water and refilling with fresh water.

Total hardness of water is made up of all the mineral in the water. These can be naturally from the water that is used to fill the pool and from the chemicals that are used to treat the pool. Calcium carbonate is the least soluble of all the minerals in pool water and is therefore the most important. It is the one that becomes over or under saturated, bring the water out of balance.

When the water is oversaturated or too high in calcium it will precipitate or come out of solution resulting in scale formation, clogged pipes, and cloudy water. The only way to reduce this is by replacing the water in the pool.

Under-saturated water is aggressive and corrosive. It attacks the piping and equipment as well as the surfaces of the pool. It is easy to fix by the addition of calcium chloride. Calculate the amount needed and then add it about 1/3 at a time over a period of 4 hours for each addition.

Proper calcium hardness is between 250 and 350 ppm. In this range it helps to keep the water balanced and all of your other chemicals working as they should.

One thing to remember is that temperature effects how things dissolve in the water. Most of us are aware that most chemicals are more soluble in warm water. (e.g. sugar in hot tea) but calcium carbonate behaves different. Calcium carbonate is less soluble in warm water. The level of calcium carbonate in the water of a spa or heated pool require particular attention.

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July 4, 2017 at 8:03 am Comments (0)

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