Simple Pool and Spa Repair from Harvey at All Parts Pool and Spa

Tech Tips and Repair how-to for pool and spa owners

What To Do with the Other Chemicals

What To Do with the Other Chemicals

Even with keeping good chemistry in your pool and spa over time you main need to use some other things to keep your water at it’s best. These things include algaecides, flocculants, stabilizers, and more.

 

Sometimes pool water becomes cloudy because of the introduction of organic pollution from the environment (i.e. air born pollens) or human wastes. Some of these are too small to be removed by the pool filter.  In this case you may want to use flocculants instead excess and more expensive chlorine.

 

A flocculating product is broadcast on the water of the pool. It joins with the small particles, making them bigger and heavier so that they fall out of the water. They are then carefully vacuumed up from the bottom.

 

There are also some flocculants that are available to add to sand filters so that they are more efficient in removing small particles. As with all chemicals follow the manufacturers directions for best results.

 

 

Algae can become a problem particularly in the early season when you are first bring a pool out of winterization, after a severe storm, and any time the chlorine level drops too low. Algae can be introduced into the water by wind blow debris, rain, falling leaves and flowers, and even the water you use to fill your pool with. The growth of algae can be helped by sunlight and warm temperatures and by other things in the water such as bacteria and minerals.

 

Algae comes in many forms and colors.Algae can float on the surface of the water or attach to walls and/or the bottom of the pool. You may need to use an algaecide to  get rid of the algae as well as some vigorous scrubbing if it has attached.

 

Algaecides come in many different forms. Some contain metals such as copper. It is important to follow the manufacturers directions not only for them to work properly but to prevent them from causing discoloration in your pool. Some algae (ie. cobalt algae) is very resistance to removal and will require repeated treatments.

 

The use of an algae inhibitor and more importantly maintaining a high free chlorine level will keep algae at a minimum.

 

 

Stains particularly from a water source that is high in iron may require the addition of chelating or sequestering agents on a regular basis to keep staining to a minimum. Sequestering or chelating agents increase the ability of the water to keep the minerals in solution.

 

 

Foaming can be a common problem in spas either from natural elements in the water or from a well meaning person who thinks that the addition of some soap will make for better bubbles. In this case a good defoamer will be your friend. Just follow the directions on the container.

 

 

Because the UV light from the sun removes chlorine from the water in outdoor facilities it will be necessary to have a stabilizer in the water to help hold on to the chlorine and keep it from breaking down into inactive compounds.

 

Cyanuric acid is used to protect the chlorine from the effects of sunlight and heat. 30 to 50 ppm of cyanuric acid will keep the loss of chlorine to 10 to 15 %. A pool without stabilizer will lose most of it in about 3 hours of strong sunlight.

 

New pools or freshly filled pools will need to be stabilized but you will need to then add very little over time. You lose stabilizer with the water that is removed from the pool or spa by what bathers carry out with them, splashing and  filter backwashing. But do not neglect the stabilizer unless you want to use and pay for  a lot of chlorine.

 

Cyanuric acid  levels should not be allowed to get above 100ppm because when it gets too high it interferes with the ability to balance the water in the pool. Cyanuric acid is removed by draining at least 20% of the water and refilling with fresh water.

 

 

Total hardness of water is made up of all the mineral in the water. These can be naturally from the water that is used to fill the pool and from the chemicals that are used to treat the pool. Calcium carbonate is the least soluble of all the minerals in pool water and is therefore the most important. It is the one that becomes over  or under saturated, bring the water out of balance.

 

When the water is oversaturated or too high in calcium it will precipitate or come out of solution resulting in scale formation, clogged pipes, and cloudy water. The only way to reduce this is by replacing the water in the pool.

 

Under-saturated water is aggressive and corrosive. It attacks the piping and equipment as well as the surfaces of the pool. It is easy to fix by the addition of calcium chloride. Calculate the amount needed  and then add it about 1/3 at a time over a period of 4 hours for each addition.

 

Proper calcium hardness is between 250 and 350 ppm. In this range it helps to keep the water balanced and all of your other chemicals working as they should.

 

One thing to remember is that temperature effects how things dissolve in the water. Most of us are aware that most chemicals are more soluble in warm water. (e.g. sugar in hot tea) but calcium carbonate behaves different. Calcium carbonate is less soluble in warm water. The level of calcium carbonate in the water of a spa or heated pool require particular attention.

ALL PARTS POOL AND SPA

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March 10, 2014 at 8:56 am Comments (0)

Surge Protective Device Nema 3R Outdoor Rated

Surge Protective Device Nema 3R Outdoor Rated

  • Type 1 or 2 applications
  • 120, 240 VAC Single (Split) Phase
  • 3 Modes of Surge Protection (L1-N, L2-N, L1-L2)
  • Green LED indicator provides status of protection
  • NEMA 3R Outdoor Raintight Enclosure for Indoor/Outdoor applications
  • Plastic housing (5.65 in. H x 4.18 in. W x 3.33 in. D)
  • 3-Year product warranty
  • $7,500 Connected Equipment Coverage Warranty for 3 years on Appliances and Electronics

ALL PARTS POOL AND SPA

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March 6, 2014 at 10:05 pm Comments (0)

Pool and Spa pH

Pool and Spa pH

pH indicates if a solution is acidic or basic. It is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Pure distilled water has a pH of 7.0 which is neutral. Solutions below 7.0 are considered acidic and those above 7.0 are basic. Swimming water should be kept above 7.0 and never above 7.8. 7.2 to 7.6 is the ideal range. Ideally pH should be checked daily on spas and heavily used pools but in any case it needs to be checked no less than once a week.

 

Water and other substances in solution break up into positive and negative charged particles called ions. Water (H2O) becomes H+ and OH-. When these are in equal amounts as in pure distilled water the pH is 7.0 or neutral. When you add other substances to the water you become more acid if the substance adds more positive ions and basic if there are more negative ions. The pH does not tell how much acid or base is in the water, but only how much is ionized.

 

It is important to have accurate pH in swimming water because it effects everything else that is in the water from how well the sanitizer kills bacteria and how long the equipment survives to how the water feels to the bather.

 

A pH that is too high (above 7.8) causes the formation of scale, ineffectiveness of chlorine and irritation too bathers, A pH that is too low (below 7.0) causes corrosion the loss of chlorine and irritation to bathers.

 

pH can be raised by the addition of soda ash or sodium bicarbonate and other more complicated substances sold by some pool stores. pH can be lowered with acids such as  Muriatic Acid (HCl or hydrochloric acid) or acid salts such as dry acid (sodium bisulfide).

 

It is importance that you thoroughly read and understand all the directions and cautions that come with any chemicals that you use. Misuse can lead to serious injury. Never adjust the chemicals in a pool or spa while it is being used. All bathers must exit the water while it is adjusted and remain out of the water for the recommended period of time in the instructions.

Under no circumstances should you add water to the chemicals if  the  instructions call for a dilution to be made. Always add chemicals to water.

 

When you get your chemicals for adjusting your pool and spa they will tell you how much to add to get the correct pH.  Always add large amounts of chemical required in small doses over a period of time. Allow the chemical to circulate through the water and retest before the final addition to minimize over shooting your goal. This may seem like a waste of time but in the long run it will save your time from having to readjust. In the business of adjusting a pool slow and careful pays off.

 

You will need to lower the pH usually more often than raise it. Most things that go into the water will raise the pH. This includes the sanitizer we add, the wastes (sweat, urine, etc.) from human use and things that wash in from nature (dirt, leaves, etc.).  Water in puddles that have been standing for a while will have a pH in the low 8’s.

 

Once the pH is adjusted you will be ready to go on to sanitation.

Harvey  ALL PARTS POOL AND SPA

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March 6, 2014 at 12:39 pm Comments (0)

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa

 

The First Thing

 

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa you need to know how much water you are dealing with. For this you will need to calculate the volume of the pool or spa and then calculate the number of gallons that it holds. (And you thought you would never use that geometry they tried to teach you in high school.)

 

I’m going to keep it very simple and get you an estimate to work with. If you want to be really accurate you can recall your higher math skills or give it to your favorite high school student as an exercise.

 

You can use a squashed rectangular box to estimate the volume of most pools or spas. Lets assume that the length of the pool is 40 feet and the width is 20 feet. It is 3 feet deep at the shallow end and the deep end is 7 feet.  The average depth is 5 feet. (3 + 7 = 10. 10/2=5) The volume of the pool is then found by multiplying the numbers together. 40 x 20 x 5 = 4000 cubic feet.

 

One cubic foot of area holds 7.48 gals of water. Therefore to get the gallons in the pool you have 4000 x 7.48 = 29920 gallons of water.

 

If you have a hot tub you usually have only one depth a hot tub that is 10 foot square and 3 feet deep has 2,244 gallons of water. (10 x 10 x 3 x 7.48 = 2244)

 

These numbers give you a “ball-park” number to start from. In general you want to use a number lower than what calculate by this method but at least you will be starting near your goal and will not add the amount of chemical you would put in your pool to your spa and vice versa.


March 5, 2014 at 7:26 pm Comments (0)

Chemical Generators FOR POOL AND SPA AND PARTS

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March 5, 2014 at 6:07 pm Comments (0)

Infusion Pool Products

Infusion Venturi

 

Infusion Pool Products introduces, Revolutionary, Venturi Driven, Swimming Pool Return Line Inlet Fittings called V-Fittings™!

Enhanced Circulation Creating an Easier to Service Water Quality

V-Fittings™ deep heat, while drastically enhancing circulation, by drawing warmer surface water through strategically placed louvers thrusting it to the floor of the pool. Venturi enhanced circulation disrupts sediment from side walls  and floor of pool increasing effectiveness of chemicals and swimming pool filters.  V-Fittings™ have no moving parts and simply attach to 1-1/2″ threaded  wall return line inlets worldwide.

EASIER TO SERVICE:

  • 360 degree adjustability allows for directional control of circulation. Aimed downwards, V-Fittings disrupt debris from side walls and floor increasing the effectiveness of swimming pool filters while preventing sediment buildup.
  • Target dead spots, steps and benches eliminating various algae buildup while improving chemical disbursement.
  • Complements In-Floor cleaning systems and keeps automatic pool cleaners moving.
  • V-Fittings direct water flow in a tumbling motion improving skimmer performance.
  • Enhanced circulation creates an easier to service swimming pool saving service professionals time, money and energy.

ENERGY EFFICIENT:

  • Increased directional flow enhances circulation providing for a more efficient turnover.
  • Improved turnover and filtration allows for reduced circulating pump operating time.
  • V-Fittings’ 60 degree venturi deep heats, using warmer surface water, reducing pool heater operating times while improving solar system performance.
  • Increased flow highly complements the use of energy efficient circulating pumps.

LOCATION BENEFITS:

  • Reduce energy costs
  • Deep Heat in colder climates
  • Cooling in hotter climates
  • Extend the swim season
  • Maximize solar system performance
  • Enjoy river flow and fountain features
  • Improves overall water quality

PRODUCTS V-FITTINGS COMPLEMENT:

  • Variable and multi speed circulation pumps
  • Solar systems, blankets and rings
  • Automatic pool cleaners
  • Chemical applicators and chemicals
  • Skimmers and swimming pool filters
  • Ozone and salt systems
  • Pool designs incorporating no main drains

 

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March 4, 2014 at 7:49 pm Comments (0)

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa

The First Thing

 

Before you can add any chemicals to your pool or spa you need to know how much water you are dealing with. For this you will need to calculate the volume of the pool or spa and then calculate the number of gallons that it holds. (And you thought you would never use that geometry they tried to teach you in high school.)

 

I’m going to keep it very simple and get you an estimate to work with. If you want to be really accurate you can recall your higher math skills or give it to your favorite high school student as an exercise.

 

You can use a squashed rectangular box to estimate the volume of most pools or spas. Lets assume that the length of the pool is 40 feet and the width is 20 feet. It is 3 feet deep at the shallow end and the deep end is 7 feet.  The average depth is 5 feet. (3 + 7 = 10. 10/2=5) The volume of the pool is then found by multiplying the numbers together. 40 x 20 x 5 = 4000 cubic feet.

 

One cubic foot of area holds 7.48 gals of water. Therefore to get the gallons in the pool you have 4000 x 7.48 = 29920 gallons of water.

 

If you have a hot tub you usually have only one depth a hot tub that is 10 foot square and 3 feet deep has 2,244 gallons of water. (10 x 10 x 3 x 7.48 = 2244)

 

These numbers give you a “ball-park” number to start from. In general you want to use a number lower than what calculate by this method but at least you will be starting near your goal and will not add the amount of chemical you would put in your pool to your spa and vice versa.

 

ALL PARTS POOL AND SPA

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March 4, 2014 at 6:11 pm Comments (0)

Pool And Spa O-Rings & Gaskets

Pool And Spa O-Rings & Gaskets

Acura Spa Systems , Advantage Manufacturing , Aladdin Equipment Co. ,. Aquaflo by Gecko , Balboa Water Group/GG , Balboa Water Group/ITT , Balboa Water Group/Pentair , Brett Aqualine , Carvin/Jacuzzi , Coates Heater Co. , Compupool Products USA Inc , Custom Molded PRoducts , Custom Molded Products , Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath , PAL Lighting , Pentair Pool Products , Pentair/Letro , Pentair/Rainbow , Pentair/Sta-Rite , Praher Canada Ltd , Raypak , Therm Products , Tropic Air Products , U.S. Seal Mfg. , Val-Pak , Waterco USA , Waterway Plastics , Zodiac Pool Systems , Zodiac/Jandy/Laars ,

 

All Parts Pool and Spa is a family owned retail web-store specializing in the parts and equipment for swimming pools and spas. We can supply over 50,000 items to our customers in a cost-effective and timely manner. By doing this we hope to enhance the quality of life for our customers. We intend to use our company resources and knowledge to provide our customers with the highest quality products, at the best price and with superior customer service.

 

 

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March 4, 2014 at 3:08 pm Comments (0)

Pool Cleaner Parts

Pool Cleaner Parts

Hayward , Navigator/Pool  , A&A Gamma , Polaris , A&A Style ,  Zodiac Waterpik , Hayward AquaBug Cleaner , Zodiac Zoom AG Cleaner , Zodiac Pacer Cleaners, , Zodiac Baracuda X7 Quattro , Zodiac Baracuda X7 Quattro , Zodiac Zippy AG Cleaner, Zodiac Ranger AG Cleaner , Zodiac Pacer Cleaners, Outer Extension , Zodiac Baracuda G3/G2 Cleaners, Zodiac Cleaners , Hayward Cleaners Vinyl , Hayward SunRay Cleaner , Hayward KingRay Cleaner , Hayward Viper , Hayward Phantom Cleaner , Hayward Navigator/Pool Vac Plus Cleaners , Hayward Cleaners, Vinyl , Pentair Kreepy Kruiser Cleaner , Pentair L79BL Cleaner , and More

 

ALL PARTS POOL AND SPA

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March 3, 2014 at 8:51 pm Comments (0)

Lube Tube AND O-Ring Chart, Aladdin

Lube Tube AND O-Ring Chart, Aladdin

Lube Tube, 4oz, each

Lube Tube, 1oz, each

Small tube perfect for homeowner use!  Use it as a recommended item every time you sell a gasket or o-ring! Lube Tube lubricates and seals with a patented barrier of PFTE.  It’s unique formula containing silicon dioxide eliminates the need for multiple lubes.  It is safe on metals, rubber, plastics, fabric, wood, leather, painted surfaces, etc…  It is waterproof, odorless, non-staining, non-flammable, non-corrosive, non-rusting, and biodegradable.  It is environmentally safe and will not melt, dry out, form gummy deposits, separate, crack, evaporate, run, or drip.  Viscosity remains the same in hot or cold temperatures with a range of -65degrees F to 500 degrees F.  If it squeaks, leaks, rubs, scrapes, slides, binds, grinds, or needs a seal, it needs Lube Tube!

O-Ring Chart, Aladdin

 

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March 3, 2014 at 2:56 pm Comments (0)

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